My top five pousadas in North East Brazil by @MaxineClayman
When I heard that Maxine was off to Brazil for 6 weeks (seriously!), I was soooooooo jealous! Having only been to this part of the world twice – and having only visited Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, I was very curious about the type of accommodation that one can expect in this part of the world. Ten years ago, I considered heading to NE (nordeste!) Brazil, but to be honest, wasn’t very impressed with what I would find in terms of hotels, or smaller pousadas. I am glad I waited! Mrs. O
I recently spend six weeks travelling across the North East of Brazil to some of the more remote parts of the country. And I’m pretty relieved to say that going off the beaten track doesn’t always mean you have to go back to basics. If, like me, you like to stay in the lap of luxury, check out thses hidden gems my recommendations of where you can treat yourself.
1 Pousada Mangabeiras, Boipeba
The island of Boipeba, south of Salvador (click here for how to get to Boipeba from Salvador) is my favourite place in Bahia, if not the whole of North East Brazil. And the Pousada Mangabeiras is easily Boipeba’s most luxurious pousada. It’s a bit of a trek to get to but as you can see from the amazing scenery, it’s worth the walk uphill to get to this retreat. Each spacious bungalow has its own hammock and ocean view and some have their own hot tubs.
Why I love it
Considering Boipeba is relatively undeveloped I was pleasantly surprised by the high standard of the Pousada Mangabeiras. Plus, this gorgeous place to unwind has views overlooking some of Brazil’s best beaches. Perfect for honeymooners and couples, this hidden gem has its own pool, restaurant and games room and there are plans to open a spa too. The bed was so comfy I was tempted to lie in but I’d have missed out on a phenomenal breakfast.
2 Pousada Agapanthus, Jericoacoara
It may be small, but there’s certainly no shortage of accommodation in the tiny village of Jericoacoara (about a six-hour drive from Fortaleza on Brazil’s North East coast) so deciding where to stay can be tricky. The Pousada Agapanthus isn’t the most expensive of the bunch but this chic, boutique-style hotel, which has just six rooms, gets my vote as the most romantic place to stay.
Why I love it
I couldn’t have asked for a better location than the Agapanthus Pousada. It’s close to all the action but on a quiet street, opposite Jeri’s famous sunset dune. View the dune as I did, while enjoying breakfast on the terrace. Or you can watch people climb it as the sun goes down, with a caipirinha in hand from the deck. The Agapanthus Pousada is only about a minute away from the beach but has its own swimming pool and sun loungers, perfect for days when I couldn’t even be bothered to walk that far!
3 Oceana Atins, Atins
If you’re looking to literally get away from it all then you’ll feel right at home at the Oceana Atins. Some of the locals hadn’t even heard about this new posuada which shows how much of a hidden gem it is, given there’s only one main street in Atins. Do bear in mind that Atins has limited electricity so while this is a modern high-end pousada is modern there’s no TV or air-conditioning.
Why I love it
We were the only guests when we visited here, in fact possibly the only tourists in Atins which is only accessible by boat or passenger truck, making for a super special experience. As its name suggests, the Oceana Atins backs on to the white sandy beach, which stretches for miles. It felt like me and my other half were on our own deserted tropical paradise.
4 Dona Flor, Canoa Quebrada
Canoa Quebrada has a reputation for being a bit of a party town best avoided but that would mean missing out on one of the nicest pousadas I stayed at in Brazil, the Dona Flor. The master suite at this boutique hotel has its own balcony where you can kick back and take refuge from the midday sun. Weekdays are the best time to visit as you’ll escape the crowds of Brazilians who descend on Canoa Quebrada for their weekend getaways.
Why I love it
The Dona Flor is away from Canoa Quebrada’s main drag, The Broadway, so had a nice, chilled vibe, allowing me plenty of quality relaxation time. It also has its own pool, an added bonus as the tide comes in early afternoon in Canoa Quebrada, so I didn’t have to miss out on any opportunities to sunbathe.
5 Windtown Cumbuco, Cumbuco
If the idea of a six-hour journey from Fortaleza to Jeri sounds a bit daunting then the fishing village of Cumbuco, just 40 minutes away, could be a better option. Cumbuco is a mecca for kitesurfers and the Windtown Brazil runs a kitesurfing school as well as offering first-class accommodation, so what better place for beginners to take lessons. There’s also an on-site spa with massage facilities if your aching muscles need to recover afterwards.
Why I love it
This place is practically on the beach, the sound of the ocean waves lapping sent me off to sleep at night, and all rooms have a sea view. Windtown was easily the most sociable of the luxury pousadas I stayed at. It attracts a youngish crowd and reminded me of being in a youth hostel but with the luxury of sleeping in a boutique hotel suite, as opposed to a dorm room.