Wine, sun and lux in Alentejo, Portugal
As I said previously, no matter how many places Mr. O and I are fortunate to go, there is a trip that it is non-negotiable: our week in July in the South of Portugal. And how do we start it? With a weekend in Alentejo, which is the bit (quite large!) between Lisbon and the Algarve.
Alentejo is one of my favourite places in the world. It is not overdeveloped (on the contrary), it is quiet, hot, the food and wine are amazing, and the pace of life slow slow slow – perfect to wind down and start a week. Or stay there forever.
The scenery in Alentejo is stunning
Alentejo is also one of the best-known winemaking regions in Portugal. I am not sure how familiar most of my readers are with Portuguese wines, but as Mr. O says, it is one of Portugal’s best kept secrets (the others being the food.. and the women.. I wonder why?).
Herdade do Esporão is one of my favourite winemakers in the world. I have visited their estate quite a few times, but was excited to see their new “enoturismo”. The new site, opened early this summer, provides a place where lovers of wine culture and gastronomy can go for a “crash course” in nature, beauty, art, history, wine, and food of Portugal and Alentejo in particular.
This was my welcoming view at Herdade do Esporão
We arrived just before lunch and had a private tour of the property, whilst tasting some wines. It would be rude not to.. a great start, indeed. I was looking forward to lunch, as always, but particularly to something quite different – olive oil tasting. Esporão produces some of the best olive oils, which I always make sure I take back home in the UK.
Different types of olive oil – cooking, dressing and more. A very interesting concept.
But what I will never forget besides the fantastic food and wine pairings? This beautifully set table, right on the vineyards. If this doesn’t put you in the mood for a glass and start a holiday, I don’t know what does…
Notice where the wine is – I want one of those! Photo by ricardobernardo.net
After lunch, it was time to learn a bit more about wine. And buy some more to bring back! I loved the new wine bar, which doubles up as a shop, where you can select from Esporão’s whole range. I did endulge – and not ashamed to admit it!
This shop made me want to buy everything.
After an amazing time at Esporão, I needed a little rest, and there was only one place to go: the fab Convento do Espinheiro, located not far away, in Évora. I have been quite a few times and I must say it is one of the best hotels in Portugal in terms of its setting and, very specifically, service. I don’t usually comment about this, but I feel I must.
Welcome to the Convento do Espinheiro
This hotel is quite special – part of it was in fact a convent, and it was a great mix of modern and old decor styles. It is not grand – and nor would I want it to be. There is something quite special about it, that makes you feel in the mood. Could be the wine, though!
A bit of sun and a bit of snooze – Mrs. O likes the pool and the spa (photo by SPG.com)
We had a bit of sun, a bit of spa (which is fantastic, by the way) and it was soon time again for a bit more wine. The hotel kindly organised a private tasting for us, like in previous times and it was a great start to the evening. One thing I particularly love, is the fact that the hotel is independent (of the wineries) and everytime we go, we always discover great new wines.
An incredible dinner (and guess what, a bit more wine) were next, followed by a great 10-hour sleep. I don’t know about you, but if I can get 10 hours, I am a pretty happy girl.
And to wake up to this view… I can’t think of a better place to start the summer.
A room with a view – Convento do Espinheiro
xo
Mrs. O
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Thanks, Mrs O. You’ve made my upcoming trip to the Alentejo seem even more exciting. Not that I’ll be able to enjoy too much of the luxury aspect of it. As I’ll be too busy walking the Rota Vicentina.
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You will love it!
I left a little piece of my heart in Portugal…. and I must go back to retrieve it! I was in Lagos and Lisbon, and that small taste of it made me want so much more PORTUGAL! I know this is a great post because now I want to go back even more!
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Oh thank you, Andrea! So kind of you! It is a special place indeed – do go back if you have a chance!
Just back from our first visit to the Alentejo region…we loved it !!! Thank you for recommending Herdade do Esporao. We had a great tour/wine tasting and a fabulous lunch (one of the best on our trip). Stayed at Villa Extramuros near Arraiolos, highly recommended if you enjoy contemporary architecture and design http://www.villaextramuros.com . Thanks again.
My absolute pleasure
thank you so much for letting me know – I really really apreciate you taking the time to do it!
Apart from the wine (I don’t drink alcohol) I think I would love everything in that place
crazy sexy fun traveler recently posted..BENEFITS OF TRAVELING TO USA
Certainly worth a visit. The food is amazing!
By spending a few days in Alentejo each year before we go to The Algarve is the perfect way to start a holiday! One unwinds really quickly, samples great food with wine at vineyards like Herdade do Esporao. Also feels that by the end of the week that it was longer than the 6/7 days! And the olive oil tasting was simply magnificent, of course we purchased some, why not!? I would heartily recommend this to everyone, don’t just drive past it or fly over it, if you do you will miss out on some real Portuguese culture and life. A must.
You must be delighted I am from a warm country
seriously, I love it that you love it 
When you’ve finished with that table, can I have it please? Not quite sure where it’ll fit but I’m sure it will. Looks fabulous.
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I know
how are we going to get one? Such a brilliant idea!
That’s it. Next time, you’re taking us with you. I’m lucky if I get ANY kind of olive oil with a meal, much less a variety! We need to see this!
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Absolutely worth a visit
promise!
I am somewhat familiar with Portuguese wine-making traditions thanks to reading about the Douro Valley. I don’t know why I haven’t visited Portugal yet (I know, blasphemy), but this post definitely makes me wan to book the next flight over. Gorgeous pictures, grate place, and olive oil tasting?? Are you kidding me?! Wonderful!
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It was indeed – nice, quiet but with everything you need. All about the simple things, me thinks!
Ah I can feel the blood pressure practically stopping when I look at these piccies Mrs O, the vastness the stillness, the calm, I wonder if the people who work there have any clue how fast the rest of the world spend running around.
Fabulous to read and something completely different, thank you for sharing
x
Pleasure, Carolyn. I think you would really like this place. Only a couple of hours away. Food is amazing and so is the wine. And hotel.. well…
Thanks for your review. Make us dream and want to travel to this quiet and amazing place.
I would like to ask you if you have been in the “L’AND Vineyards” wine resort (http://www.l-andvineyards.com)
I only know from the internet and some magazines, but looks amazing. I think it could be a place for your next review about Alentejo. I would like to know your opinion (no, I’m not from this resort. I’m from the North of Portugal)
Once again, congratulations for your blog and continue to make us dream.
Hi Miguel, thank for you for stopping by and for your kind words. I have heard of it, but never been. Funnily enough their marketing director worked with me for more than 5 years, so will check with her. Problem is that I don’t have more trips planned to Portugal. So maybe next year
You will love the “L´and and Vineyards”, chose a skysuite, i´m quite sure you won´t regret! Another perfect place for a weekend!
My summer holidays, this last year, started there, and we really enjoy it!
I meant to go there, but not enough time
Decisions, decisions! Maybe next year!
I feel relaxed just reading this post and viewing the pictures. The pace of life there is so cool that even reading about it makes me calm.
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Thank you, Ted. You would love it there
soo we’re going to need to try this “non-negotiable annual trip to a beach town in europe” tactic you speak of. and also portuguese wine.
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it kind of works, you know? As for Portuguese wine, you should – very very nice!
gorgeous photos. will we be going here next summer or another vineyard? i don’t care – whatever you want but it looks fantastic. and the OLIVE OIL…i could live on that & bread for the rest of my life
I don’t know – difficult decisions
I may surprise you!
Alentejo is really starting to grow on me…
stay adventurous, Craig
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you would love it – very different from Spain!
Alentejo is one of my favourite regions of Europe, too – and, unfortunately, most tourists ignore in on their rush from Lisbon to Algarve, or from Lisbon to Spain. Alentejo is about ‘understatement’: understated quality, understated luxury, understated flavours, … So glad I’ll be there in just over a week!!!
I am a big fan of Espinheiro – it is the perfect place to recharge batteries. You are right: the service there is second to none. You truly feel valued and looked after. And they are most welcoming of children, too, which doesn’t always happen in high end hotels. There is even a special part of the garden where children can plant their own fruit tree (with name plate attesting ‘ownership’ and all!).
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Totally agree with you about the understated aspect of Alentejo, I think that is why I love it so much. And people are lovely
I’m in love with Portugal and I’ve never even been! Of course you’re going to rectify that next summer. I’m really interested in the olive oil tasting. I’ll be doing one of those in Tuscany this winter. I’m glad to know that it’s worth doing.
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Oh, the olive oil tasting is super interesting – you will love it. As you will love Portugal, I just know it!
Heaven…no other way to describe it…
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Totally share the feeling. It kind of was!
I loved the photos you have here Mrs. O! so inspiring and I am struck at the beauty of Alentejo.
I also love the concept of the olive oil.
cheers
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Thank you
very kind of you. Hope you get a chance to visit one day 
Thanks for the trip down memory lane. I remember with great fondness spending most of my childhood summers at my grandparents in Estremoz.
Hi Alex, you are welcome
lovely part of the world 
Lovely lovely lovely! Since you were wondering about your readers’ knowledge, I know next to nothing about Portuguese wine but I’d love to try some. I’ve had Portuguese food only a couple of times and that was here in America.
Spectacular photos here; I’m especially drawn to Convento do Espinheiro
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Well, I have some interesting news for you – Esporao can know be found in the US.. worth googling them. The good thing about Portuguese wines is value for money, very good ratio. I think you would have loved this place.
I still can’t believe how u take the most amazing photos. Every story!
It is the wine! And they aren’t all mine, credit where it is due. The iphone is very good
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Thanks for the wonderful virtual tour! Alentejo was my favorite place in Europe. I especially loved the hilltop town of Serpa and the mesoliths outside of Evora. BEAUTIFUL!
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Oh wow! That is so nice to hear, I can’t tell you, Barbara. I love it there too.. so much, I can’t to get back
Thank you so much for stopping by