Luxury Hotels in Abu Dhabi: An Honest Review of Where We Stay & How We Get Around

I have visited Abu Dhabi more than fifteen times now.

Whilst Dubai tends to get most of the attention, it has never really been our thing. Abu Dhabi has always suited us much better, which is probably why we keep going back.

For years, we were complete creatures of habit and stayed at the exact same hotel on almost every trip. It worked, we loved it and never really saw a reason to change. More recently, however, we have started branching out and trying a few different properties.

This isn’t meant to be an exhaustive guide to the best hotels in Abu Dhabi. It’s simply a round-up of the hotels we have actually stayed at, what we thought of them and how we tend to organise our trips.

One thing that often surprises people is that we don’t necessarily fly into Abu Dhabi.

Whenever we’re planning a trip, I always check flights to both Abu Dhabi (AUH) and Dubai (DXB). Prices can vary wildly between the two and we’re not particularly loyal to either airport. If flying into Dubai saves us €1,000 per person, we’ll happily do the 90-minute drive to Abu Dhabi. At that point, the maths becomes pretty compelling.

I use Google Flights extensively when researching trips and often set up a number of fare alerts before booking. If you’re not familiar with the platform, I’ve written a separate guide on how I use Google Flights to find cheaper fares and occasionally save a surprising amount on Business Class tickets.

Regardless of where we land, we always rent a car.

I know plenty of people rely entirely on taxis in the UAE, but having a car gives us complete freedom. We tend to spend our days exploring, going out for dinner, visiting shopping centres and generally changing plans as we go along. Having our own car makes all of that incredibly easy and, for us at least, it has become part of the routine.

The Base: The St. Regis Saadiyat Island Resort

When we want a proper beach holiday in Abu Dhabi, this is where we end up.

Having stayed here more than ten times, I can confidently say that whilst the property is no longer brand new, it still gets an awful lot right. The rooms remain excellent, the service is consistently warm and professional, and the location is hard to beat. The beach is enormous, the sand is beautiful and, unlike some destinations, it never feels overcrowded.

You can check rates directly with Marriott Bonvoy or compare prices on Booking.com, but either way, this is the hotel we find ourselves returning to time and time again.

For years, we visited as a couple and knew exactly what to expect. More recently, we’ve been travelling with a child and were pleasantly surprised by how family-friendly the resort actually is. We had never really paid attention to the kids’ facilities before, but there is a proper kids’ club, organised activities and even private swimming lessons available on-site.

What I particularly like about staying on Saadiyat is that it still feels relatively low-rise and relaxed. Despite all the recent development, it doesn’t have that wall-to-wall hotel feeling you find in some beach destinations.

The cultural offering has also grown enormously over the years. The Louvre Abu Dhabi is just down the road and the Zayed National Museum and Natural History Museum are adding even more reasons to spend time in the area beyond the beach.

When we’re not by the pool, you’ll often find us wandering along Mamsha Al Saadiyat. It’s a lovely beachfront promenade with cafés, restaurants and plenty of places to stop for a drink whilst looking out over the water.

As for restaurants, there are two we return to again and again.

Beirut Sur Mer is probably our favourite restaurant on Saadiyat. Located directly on Mamsha, it serves modern Lebanese food in a beautiful beachfront setting and is one of those places we always seem to end up booking at least once every trip.

Buddha-Bar Beach, located within the St. Regis itself, is another regular. The food is consistently good, the cocktails are excellent and the atmosphere in the evenings feels a little more grown-up when you’re in the mood for something special.

The Value Alternative: Al Maryah Island

We’re probably not the best people to ask about Abu Dhabi’s city centre because, if I’m honest, we rarely stay there.

On a typical Abu Dhabi trip, our routine is fairly predictable: beach, pool, restaurants, shopping and the occasional cultural stop. Because of that, we spend almost all of our time between Saadiyat Island and Al Maryah Island.

In many ways, they give us everything we’re looking for.

That said, we’ve only really stayed on Al Maryah Island when Saadiyat hasn’t made sense.

During peak season, room rates on Saadiyat can become eye-wateringly expensive and it’s not unusual to see prices comfortably above €1,500 per night. On a few occasions, we’ve also booked trips at the last minute and found that our preferred beach resorts were either full or charging rates we simply couldn’t justify.

When that happens, we switch to Al Maryah Island.

It started out as a backup plan but has become one of our favourite areas of Abu Dhabi in its own right. You lose the beach on your doorstep, but you gain excellent restaurants, fantastic shopping and some genuinely lovely hotels. Given that Saadiyat is less than ten minutes away by car, we’ve never felt we were missing out on much.

There are two great options here: The Rosewood and The Four Seasons. We have stayed at both at very low rates, which made last-minute trips exceptionally good value.

Let’s be entirely realistic about the catch: the pools at both hotels are small, city-style setups. You do not board an Etihad flight to Abu Dhabi to sit by the pool on Al Maryah Island. If that is what you want, stay elsewhere. But for everything else, the location works well.

Both hotels connect directly to The Galleria Mall via indoor walkways, which is incredibly convenient.

One of the things I love about staying on Al Maryah Island is that you can walk straight from your hotel to the shops, restaurants and cafés without stepping outside. It sounds lazy, but after spending enough time in Abu Dhabi, you quickly learn to respect the heat.

In the cooler months, walking around is lovely. In the middle of Summer, however, that short stroll can feel considerably longer than it looks on a map.

The Galleria is also home to some of our favourite restaurants in Abu Dhabi, including Zuma and Coya, both of which we return to time and time again.

That said, you don’t even need to leave the hotels to eat well.

In fact, some of our favourite meals in Abu Dhabi have been at the Rosewood itself, which has two restaurants we return to on almost every trip:

• Dai Pai Dong: An exceptional Cantonese restaurant that specialises in brilliant dim sum and authentic roasted duck.
• Em Sherif Sea Café: A beautiful, bright Levantine spot right on the ground floor. It focuses heavily on fantastic Lebanese seafood, mezze, and grilled meats with an indoor/outdoor waterfront terrace.

One of the advantages of staying on Al Maryah Island is that you don’t have to choose between the city and the beach.

Saadiyat is less than a ten-minute drive away and, if we’re honest, that’s exactly what we tend to do. We get all the convenience of staying in the middle of Abu Dhabi, whilst still having easy access to some of the best beaches in the UAE.

You can’t simply wander into the St. Regis and claim a sun lounger, but Soul Beach at Mamsha Al Saadiyat is a great option and you can rent loungers for the day. Saadiyat Beach Club is also worth looking at if you’re planning a proper beach day.

Whilst you’re in the area, I would also make time for a visit to the Mina Date Market.

Located near the port and only a short drive from both Al Maryah and Saadiyat, it feels a world away from the luxury malls and beach clubs. We almost always stop by before flying home to stock up on dates, nuts and gifts. It may not be the most glamorous attraction in Abu Dhabi, but it is one of the places we return to again and again.

Book this area if: you want a luxury city hotel without giving up easy access to Saadiyat’s beaches.

→ Compare availability and rates for Four Seasons Abu Dhabi and Rosewood Abu Dhabi.

Moving Into the Desert: Anantara Qasr Al Sarab vs. Al Wathba

We have stayed at two desert properties. All the proper luxury options out here are managed by either Anantara or Marriott, which makes direct bookings straightforward.

Anantara Qasr Al Sarab

If you’re looking for something completely different from the beach resorts and city hotels, Qasr Al Sarab is worth considering.

Located deep within the Liwa Desert on the edge of the Empty Quarter, it feels a world away from the rest of Abu Dhabi. The setting is genuinely spectacular, with enormous dunes stretching as far as the eye can see.

We only managed to stay for two nights, simply because availability was limited when we booked, but I would happily recommend three nights if you can make it work. It is one of those places where the days naturally slow down. You read a book, spend time by the pool, watch the colours change across the dunes and generally do very little.

In a world where we’re constantly rushing from one thing to the next, that felt rather wonderful.

Book this hotel if: you want to experience the desert without sacrificing comfort.

→ Check availability on Booking.com

→ View rates directly with Anantara

Al Wathba Desert Resort

On our most recent trip, we couldn’t get into Qasr Al Sarab at all.

As disappointing as that initially felt, it led us to discover Al Wathba, A Luxury Collection Desert Resort, which turned out to be a very happy accident.

Unlike Qasr Al Sarab, which requires a much longer drive into the Empty Quarter, Al Wathba is only around an hour from Abu Dhabi. That makes it a much easier option for a shorter stay and, if I’m honest, considerably easier to justify with a child in the back of the car.

Thanks to our Marriott Bonvoy status, we were upgraded to a suite with a private plunge pool and it was fantastic. The rooms were beautiful, the main pool was excellent and we were pleasantly surprised by the food. Hotel restaurants can sometimes feel expensive for what they are, but we thought the dining here was both good and fairly priced.

The hotel also gets a lot of the little things right. Staff regularly appeared by the pool with complimentary ice creams and cold treats, which sounds like a small detail but somehow makes all the difference when you’re sitting in the desert heat.

Travelling with a child also gave us a completely different perspective on the resort. The kids’ club ended up being a real asset, giving our little one a chance to escape the heat for an hour or two whilst enjoying crafts, games and water activities. It also meant we occasionally got to enjoy a coffee in peace, which any parent will appreciate.

We arrived expecting a good alternative to Qasr Al Sarab and left wondering why we hadn’t stayed here sooner.

We would happily return.

Book this hotel if: you like the idea of a desert resort but still want easy access to Abu Dhabi. We arrived expecting a good backup option and left wondering why we hadn’t stayed here sooner.

→ Check availability on Booking.com

→ Check Marriott Bonvoy rates and availability

The Wildcard: Sir Bani Yas Island

Our most recent discovery was Sir Bani Yas Island, which sits quite far away from Abu Dhabi on the way down towards the Saudi Arabian border. It requires a drive and a short boat trip, and it was a complete surprise. We had half-expected a small, self-contained resort setup like the Maldives, but the island is a massive, proper nature reserve.

There are three distinct experiences here, all managed and bookable via Anantara or via Booking.com:

• Desert Islands Resort & Spa: This is the main hotel. It is a solid 4-star property and is absolutely fine, but it functions more as the central hub.
• Anantara Al Sahel: This is the safari precinct located in the interior grasslands.
• Anantara Al Yamm: This is the beachfront villa precinct located right on the sand and mangroves.

Yes, an actual safari. It is obviously not Africa, but we didn’t quite know what to expect and really enjoyed it. We did both a private drive and a walking version. The wildlife roams completely free through the interior. We stayed for two nights in an Al Sahel villa with its own private pool, and the experience was excellent.

We spent the other two nights at an Al Yamm beachfront villa, which was stunning. We were originally meant to spend all four nights at the beach, but there was an issue with the reservation system, so we accepted the split alternative instead. As it turned out, we loved moving between the two environments.

If you book this, there are two things we found essential:

1. Book the Villas: If you stay at the Al Sahel or Al Yamm villas, you can use the facilities, pools, and restaurants of all three properties on the island. Guests staying at the standard Desert Islands hotel are not permitted to use the villa facilities.
2. Pre-book Half-Board: Pre-booking half-board turned out to be excellent value. Furthermore, this was the first time a hotel really made an effort to get everything organised weeks before we arrived. Their app is excellent—we used it to book our spa slots, safaris, and activities well in advance, meaning we arrived with zero stress.

Anantara has an excellent selection of hotels in Abu Dhabi.

We will certainly be going back.

The Few Things That Tempt Us Away From Saadiyat Beach

If I’m honest, we’re perfectly capable of spending several days moving between the beach, the pool and whichever restaurant we’ve booked for dinner.

However, there are a handful of places in Abu Dhabi that we genuinely think are worth making the effort for.

Louvre Abu Dhabi

Even if you’re not particularly interested in museums, I would still recommend a visit.

The building itself is extraordinary and probably one of the most beautiful modern buildings in the UAE. The setting on the water is stunning and, unlike many museums, it never feels overwhelming.

It is also incredibly convenient if you’re staying on Saadiyat, making it easy to combine with lunch at Mamsha or a beach afternoon.

→ Book Louvre Abu Dhabi tickets

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

The mosque has changed enormously since our first visit.

What used to be a fairly straightforward visit now involves underground parking, security screening and what is effectively a small shopping centre beneath the complex. It feels slightly surreal the first time you see it.

Do remember to dress modestly. Women need to cover their arms and legs, whilst men cannot wear shorts. If you’ve forgotten, don’t panic. There are plenty of shops on-site selling suitable clothing and abayas for visitors.

Despite all the changes, it remains one of the most impressive buildings in the UAE and is well worth visiting at least once. Entrance is free but you need an online ticket.

→ Prebook your complimentary tickets here.

Qasr Al Watan

I have only visited in the evening for the light show and would happily recommend it.

As darkness falls, the palace is illuminated with a projection show telling the story of the UAE, called Palace in Motion. It doesn’t take all evening and makes a pleasant change from another dinner reservation or shopping trip.

→ Book Qasr Al Watan tickets

Yas Island

This is probably where I should admit that I haven’t actually visited most of the big attractions.

Ferrari World, Warner Bros. World and Yas Waterworld are all incredibly popular, but we’ve been saving them for when our daughter is a little older.

We have, however, spent time at Yas Mall, which is worth a visit if you’re in the area. It isn’t as luxurious as The Galleria, but it’s a very good shopping centre and home to one of the most interesting Carrefour hypermarkets I’ve come across.

→ Browse Yas Island experiences

A Desert Experience

One thing I would say is not to get too carried away booking one of the many desert camp experiences advertised online.

We tried one and, if I’m honest, it was probably one of the more disappointing experiences we’ve had in the UAE. It felt crowded, overly commercial and far less authentic than the photographs suggested.

If all you want is to see camels, drive through the dunes or spend a little time in the desert, I would simply let your hotel organise it for you. In our experience, the excursions arranged through the resorts were considerably more relaxed and much better executed.

Personally, dune bashing is quite fun but the camps not really.

Mina Date Market

One of our favourite pre-flight stops.

Located near the port and only a short drive from both Al Maryah Island and Saadiyat, it’s a great place to pick up dates, nuts and gifts to bring home. We almost always stop here before heading to the airport.

It may not be the most glamorous attraction in Abu Dhabi, but it is one of the places we return to again and again.

Final Thoughts

The funny thing is that, despite having visited more than fifteen times, Abu Dhabi never feels old to us. The beaches remain some of our favourites anywhere in the world, new hotels continue to open and there always seems to be another restaurant, museum or corner of the city to try.

If you’re planning your first trip, I hope this guide helps you avoid some of the trial and error it took us years to figure out.

As for us, we’re already looking forward to visit number sixteen.

Until the next time.

Mrs. O