Mrs O’s Lisbon – her address book!
It is quite interesting that my beloved hometown – Lisboa, or Lisbon for you foreigners – is becoming quite a popular destination for weekend breaks. This is good news for the “current economic climate”, but also because, in my humble opinion, it is quite a place.
The river on a sunny day – Lisbon
More often that not, I get asked by friends and friends of friends (I’d say at least once a week!) so an email is ready to be forwarded. But with this blog soft-launch, why not go all the way and share my favourite places?
They are not the latest places that opened in town – they are my favourites, some of them I have been going for 10 years and always have a brilliant experience. You can take my word for it!
Enjoying Lisbon
Lisbon is quite a compact city and you should take the opportunity to have a look around. On this page you’ll find some recommendations and links to external sites.
Taxis are cheaper than anywhere else in Europe and easy to find 24 hours a day. Two useful numbers, in case you need to call one – Teletaxis (+351) 218111100 or Radiotaxis – 218119000. Taxis only take 4 passengers, and extra charges apply for luggage and pre bookings (1.60 Euros). A taxi ride within the city should never cost more than 10 Euros, so don’t get fooled!
Both buses and the underground system are inexpensive and easy to use – I can’t offer more advice as I rarely use them for the above mentioned reasons. Very naughty, I know!
Trains are modern and punctual, but we’d definitely recommend hiring a car if you really want to see the country. Besides the usual suspects, we have been getting good prices at www.travelsupermarket.com and www.avisba.com (if you have a BA Executive Club Card).
Lisbon
A good place to start, would be to get yourself an updated travel guide. A particularly good one, guess what, HG2 (www.hg2.com) but the DK Eyewitness Lisbon Top 10 and Wallpaper guides are also good.
Lisbon has 2 sightseeing tour companies, and one is clearly better than the other one. Visit Carris’ website on www.carristur.pt. It has information on various tours, which you could consider:
- Lisbon Hop-On – Hop-Off – there are 2 guided routes: the Colinas and the Discovery circuits. They stop everywhere and run quite frequently. €18 per person – Sintra tour – fantastic little place 45 minutes away from Lisbon. €35 per person.
Alternatively, you can hire a car and drive to Sintra, and return via Cascais – more details in a second!
Restaurants
Portuguese food is excellent and should appeal to most tastes. What is Portuguese food like? I hear you ask.. well, it’s lovely! We use mediterranean ingredients, but cook them in what I would say a “simpler” way than Spanish or Greek (I love them both, not complaining!). Obviously, it will be easy to find other types of restaurants. Below are some of Mrs. O’s all-time favourites:
- Pap’Açorda - modern Portuguese, a classic – Rua da Atalaia, 57. Tel 21 346 48 11. Has 2 seatings for dinner: one at 8pm and another at 10pm. (Bairro Alto)
- Vaskus - mostly meat: fondue, brazilian picanha and steaks – Rua Passos Manuel, 30. Tel. 21 352 22 93. Only takes reservations until 8.30pm. If you do not turn up by then, only go after 10pm as it’s a small place and always busy.
- Kais - modern Portuguese, by the river – Rua Cintura Porto Armazém 1, Tel. 21 393 29 30 www.kais-k.com
- A Travessa - more French/Belgium, in a convent – Travessa do Convento das Bernardas 12, Tel. 213902034 www.atravessa.com
- Bica do Sapato - Portuguese food, very trendy place, located next to Lux. Ensure you book a table at the “Cafeteria”, trust us – Avenida Infante Dom Henrique Armazém B, Cais da Pedra à Bica do Sapato, Tel 218810320 www.bicadosapato.com
- Charcutaria - very Portuguese, with traditional food from the Alentejo – Rua do Alecrim 47 A, Tel 21 342 38 45 (near Bairro Alto)
- Estado Líquido – Fusion Sushi – Largo de Santos 5 A, Tel 21 397 20 22 www.estadoliquido.com
- Aqui há Peixe - fish dishes – Rua da Trindade nº 18 A, Tel. 213 432 154 www.aquihapeixe.pt
- Parreirinha de Alfama - to listen to fado music and eat traditional Portuguese food – Beco do Espírito Santo 1, Tel 218 868 209 (good if you are of a certain age, it is not for me, except when friends beg me to go.. the food is actually quite decent here if you are up to a “touristy Portuguese night”
Breakfast
One of Portugal’s best kept secrets are its patisseries, or “pastelarias” as they are called. Most Lisboners go out for breakfast as it is delicious and not expensive at all.
Are you hungry?
One of the best pastelarias in Lisbon is Versailles and we’d strongly recommend a visit. These places are open between 7.30am and 8.30pm and is it located on Av. da Republica, 15-A, immediately after Saldanha. http://www.pastelariaversailles.com
Shopping
Portugal is a good place for shopping and the offering is quite good. Obviously, we have most international brands at better prices than in the UK, as in most cases these are indexed to the local cost of living. Zara, Mango and Massimo Dutti’s prices in Portugal can be 30-40% lower. It’s worth checking out some Portuguese and Spanish brands which are not available everywhere and are particularly good:
- Wesley (for men) – has a shop outside Amoreiras Shopping Centre, one in Saldanha and another in Vasco da Gama Shopping Centre
- Lanidor and Globe (for women) – they are on most high streets and shopping centres, and both have flagships in Avenida da Liberdade
- Adolfo Dominguez, Purificación Garcia and Carolina Herrera (for both men and women) – all 3 can be found of Avenida da Liberdade and at El Corte Inglés department store. Adolfo Dominguez has a shop in Saldanha’s Atrium Saldanha Shopping Centre and Purificación Garcia has another shop in Saldanha Residence Shopping Centre.
Large Shopping Centres
- Amoreiras Shopping Centre (in Amoreiras), best accessed by taxi
- Vasco da Gama (in Parque das Nações), underground: Oriente (red line)
- Colombo (Portugal’s largest shopping centre), underground: Colégio Militar (blue line)
- El Corte Inglés - Lisbon’s only department store, underground: São Sebastião (blue line)
- Freeport Designer Outlet – located in Alcochete, 30 minutes south of Lisbon. Easy to get to by car, but there is also a hotel shuttle service in the summer. Brands include Carolina Herrera, Purificación Garcia, Zegna, Burberrys, Versace, Adolfo Dominguez, Boss – as always, you need to be lucky on the day you go.
High Street Shopping
- Avenida da Liberdade – where most designer shops are
- Rua Augusta (in Baixa)
- Rua do Carmo and Rua Garrett (Chiado area)
Hotels
As far as hotels are concerned, my home away from home is the Sheraton Lisbon, where I always stay when I’m in town. It’s 5-stars (literally) and average rates are around €115 per night, which is unbeatable. Did I mention it is also the tallest building in Lisbon and has one of the coolest rooftop bars? www.sheraton.com/lisboa
With these suggestions, you can spend a great long weekend in Lisbon, ensuring you see a little bit more than the Castle and all the other “must-go” places.. and help the local economy of course!. If you use these suggestions, I’d be delighted if you let me know how it went! Photos, please!
Até breve,
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i trust your travel recommendations for anywhere but for your home country of Portugal – ABSOLUTELY would do everything you say!
lola recently posted..treated like Royalty at Four Seasons Hotel George V – Paris
Good girl!
Can’t wait to try some of the food and shopping suggestions! Is it veg-friendly? At Christmas time I bet it’s pretty!
Not so much.. but hoping you eat fish!!
I visited Lisboa one day in 1972, when my ship stopped there on the way to England. I really fell in love with it. I liked the tiny narrow streets, and the very wide avenues. I listened to the children playing and wished I could understand their attractive language. I would love to have spent more time there, and you pictures make me want to go back.
Hi Ken, thank you for your kind words. Do go back to Lisbon when you can – it was changed a lot.. and dare I say, for the better!
Bom Dia/Hello Lilly,Um Prazer cncehoer-lhe.I am very happy to have found your blog. Your site is inspirational, and I am happy that you have a passion for Lisbon. I am Portuguese, living in the UK and feel similiar to how you feel in regards to Portugal. It is always nice to discover passion in people, through places.Although I lived most of my childhood in Portugal (Sintra) and was born in Lisbon (Lisboeta) I never really got to know Lisbon inside and out, as I was more familiar with the coast alongside Sintra (Cascais, estoril) and the North of Portugal, where my grandad lives. About 4 years ago whilst at University, we visited Lisbon part of an Urban Regeneration course, and that was like my first proper chance to get to know Lisbon. We visited many places, that I had never been before. The old, and the completetly new, and we learnt about the history of the city, as well as the current reality of it, through urban and social changes. It was a very rewarding and enlightening experience. Since then I have been back many times, as I have a strong connection with the city.I also love other parts of Portugal, and when going back I always like to discover new places. Beautiful place, always in heart. Lovely to have found you.As melhoras para voce.Ana
Great post Ana! I’ve visited Lisbon and Cascais every year for the past 4 years now, last year I travelled from Porto to Lisbon then Sintra, then Cascais with a group of friends – really is my favourite European city!
Excellent tram photos… trams are cool!
Hehe, it’s so cool to see so many peploe in love with Lisbon, the city in lived in for all my 28 years .My job allows me to visit a lot of countries, from Tokyo to Seattle, Paris, London, New York and more. I love a lot of these cities, but my true love is to Lisboa.Of course, I live here and I?m Portuguese, so I?m almost obliged to like it, but I truly love my city.I think it has a lot of soul and nostalgia, almost as it is alive, a very distinctive personality.I also think it’s a great city to visit for culture, food, modern and old arquitecture, and night life. How i LOVE Bairro Alto and Lux Of course, having 2 big football clubs also helps to ease my football appetite.Anyway, loved the blog and to know, some foreigners share the same passion, even if some locals don?t appreciate the city much!Cheers!
Congrats, Ana! Great site with very good tips about Lisboa!!! xxx
thank you for your kind words and don’t forget to subscribe! very excited about this project
Excellent post! Beautiful poohtgraphs! It’s good that you found some good vegetarian food there too. Nice to know you guys had fun! – Mom
Those little custard tarts are indeed awesome, I’d recommend at least one of the big ones per day
so glad you like them too!!
, by fado! Through your eyes I see a Lisbon that is a faaiinstcng new universe, not the distressed calcada of those that run it everyday on their daily routines and chores, too busy to notice and re-appreciate what they already know and seen thousands of times.I’ve revisited Lisboa virtually through your site and I too could smell the air pregnant with coffee and toasted bread and fresh baked pasteis de nata in the rua Augusta on an early morning. Or hear the loud traffic while crossing Rossio, always busy with thousands of people in a hurry to get in or out of town, and then around the corner the smell of just roasted marroni wrapped in yellow pages cones. And when the night falls to walk the unwalkable Bairro Alto and finish the night hearing singing Fado and thinking again how did it all started, what was real, what was imagined.Ahhhhh, how I miss Lisboa! Thank you so much for this trip to Lisbon, for your accuracy, for details that are forgotten or not seen at all, for reviving it and bringing to people in other places, with other cultures. Your Lisbon is my Lisbon.Huge hugxxxMarpessa
Well written post – makes a refreshing change from all the rubbish lots of so-called experts post on the situation.
thank you! very kind of you!
ps: also Prada and Louis Vuitton in Av. Liberdade, Marc Jacobs in Chiado
Don’t forget to walk around Alfama and Castelo and discover small fado restaurants with live performances (kitch and local 
) oh well… Lisbon is a full live experience 
this is “my lisbon”, where I go.. for the castle and stuff readers can buy a travel guide
oh as for shops… those exist everywhere and so much more expensive 
we want readers to try local stuff.. my husband now adores Carolina Herrera and Purificacion Garcia and his friends etc now always want to go there.. quite funny, actually!
yes you are right
as I said previously, you covered it all 
Hi KeithYes Lisbon does have a way of laniveg a hole in the heart we come away knowing the true meaning of Saudade I think! Thanks for your comment, glad you like the site
indeed you covered it all!
great description!
ohhh so happy! i did this original list when we got married and had everyone asking about it! thank you
Some cool places, thank you
Nice blog, Mrs O! Lisbon is so lovely! You must do one on Cascais!
That is a great idea and in the cards before year end! Glad you enjoyed it!