Getting stoned in Rio – Guest Blogger – @L_e_a_h
I bumped into Leah on Twitter and we found we had something quite cool in common: our recent trips to Rio de Janeiro. How happy was I that this lovely lady shared the same love for jewellery and all things H.Stern? I had to ask her to tell us all about it! x Mrs O
Rio de Janeiro - Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon seen from the Corcovado
I’d saved the serious shopping for my last day in Rio de Janeiro. Six days had flown by, and it was time to get down to business. There was a purse I’d spotted on day one, and shoe shopping was a must. After one last meat-filled lunch overlooking Copacabana Beach, I was ready to earn some AmEx points.
Along with my friend and hostess, Xochitl, I was dropped off in the fabled shopping district of Ipanema. There was the usual hustle and bustle, but something was amiss. The first store I tried to enter was closed…and the second. ..and the third! Thanks to Carnival, most of the stores were shut down. So much for that purse! We found teasing ourselves with window shopping simply unbearable, so Xochitl called her driver to pick us up.
“STOP!” I practically slapped the iPhone out of her hand. Bells rang. Clouds parted. Angels sang.
There before me was the god of gems, H. Stern. Well, not Hans Stern the person, but H. Stern the jewelry store. More than just any old jewelry store, this was the world headquarters of H. Stern! My knees buckled, and I murmured something like, “Must go there.” Famous the world over for their innovative design and fabulous gemstones, I couldn’t get across Rua Visconde de Pirajá fast enough.
Stunning precious stones
Through my research of Rio, I discovered that H. Stern offers tours. In fact, it’s one of the most popular tourist attractions in the city. Images of me dripping with gorgeous jewels flashed through my mind. Yes, I was going to be fawned over like Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman, you know, after she cleaned up. I couldn’t wait to be elbow deep in diamonds and precious gems.
Greeted with English and smiling faces, Xochitl and I walked through the huge glass doors that kept out the reality of Rio. After all, this was H. Stern, fantasy land for those with limited resources and playground for those with money to burn. We were passed to three different people before reaching a giant counter. “Welcome to H. Stern. How may I help you?”
Which is my favourite colour? Hum...
Xochitl and I indicated that we’d like a tour. Swiftly we were handed cards to fill out, as well as plastic lanyards to be worn around our necks. Anticipation mounted. I knew we were close; I could smell the gold from the lobby. Escorted to yet another counter, we were asked our language preference. Headphones and MP3 players were given to guide us through the tour’s first part. Sternly (no pun intended), we were instructed not to take pictures, as not to disturb employees working with the jewelry. Yeah, like I was going to adhere to that policy. I pulled out my iPhone.
In a darkened room with lighted and numbered display cases, we were led by our audio tour through Brazil’s gemstone mining history and their jewelry-making process. With each display more beautiful than the next, we saw rocks go from raw gemstones to finished loose stones. Emeralds of varying colors and sizes were lined up to demonstrate variety. Giant amethysts, from lilac to deep purple, made me giddy. The bowl full of aquamarines mimicked Rio’s beautiful blue coastline. We were both mesmerized.
Sandwiched between the displays were windows showcasing artisans. There were actual employees working in creation and design, cutting, polishing, goldsmithing, classifying gems, as well as setting them. It was fascinating to watch the number of steps taken to bring one piece of jewelry to fruition. The meticulous care taken by cutters, the creativity by the designers, and tedious work of setting gems left me dumbfounded. I could have lingered for hours, but part two of the tour awaited.
I will take those, thank you!
Escorted by yet another person, we were led to a large room filled with tables and chairs. An older woman with short, grey hair greeted us. She was dripping in gold and looked très chic in her all-black outfit. We were offered a seat at her table as well as something to drink. Flanked by two young ladies, one was dispatched for coffee and the other for trays of aquamarines and Imperial topaz, the rarest variety of topaz. Mined in Ouro Preto, just a short drive from Rio, we were told that the colors of Imperial topaz range from peach to pink to orange to champagne to brown. I’d never heard of this kind of topaz and was eager to see it.
Our consultant quizzed us on our jewelry preferences until the goodies arrived. It was as if a spotlight shone on the tray full of rings. The white gold and gems dazzled against the felt; my eyes must have been a big as saucers. One after another, I was handed glorious gems. They slipped onto my finger as if made for me. I loved them all, but one in particular stole my heart. I ooohed and ahhhed at the oval-cut aquamarine that graced my right ring finger. I was certainly smitten.
A few punches on her calculator, the keeper of the jewels showed me the price of the ring I coveted. “Is that in US Dollars, minus the tax?” It had already been explained that any H. Stern purchase by an American was duty-free. As suspected, that was my out-the-door price. I looked at the numbers on the calculator once more. I guessed it was a reasonable price; I didn’t know much about the price of aquamarines. But there was no way I was going to make that kind of purchase without my husband. I reluctantly slid the ring off my finger and gently placed it back into the tray. I longingly glanced at the object of my desire once more before being whisked off to the third part of the tour.
This is the before.. imagine the after!
Xochitl and I were escorted to yet another showroom, but this one was set up like a traditional store front. A gentleman led us through the maze of jewelry display cases, stopping and explaining each collection and various types of gemstones. Patient and accommodating, he allowed us to try on whatever we wanted and even chose a pair of green tourmaline earrings that complimented my eyes. This guy was smooth, let me tell you.
After exploring the more traditional jewelry, we were passed off to yet another person and shown H. Stern’s contemporary collections. I always thought of myself as a traditional kind of girl, but after seeing designs by Diane von Furstenberg and Oscar Niemeyer, I changed my tune. Pieces in this gallery were inspired by nature. From chunky and bold to delicate and understated, I could have left with every single piece. The smoky quartz ring from the Highlight Stars Collection sent me into a near frenzy. This 18-carat gold, chunky cocktail ring was emblazoned along the sides with the signature Stern star. And beneath the huge smoky quartz was a giant Stern star. Through the beautiful central stone, a lovely eight-point star shown through. I was in love.
Star Ring
The last part of our tour concluded in the gift shop. Talk about anti-climactic! Xochitl and I browsed the various tchotchkes, but might as well been looking at a pile of junk. Nothing was going to satisfy my jewelry desire in the gift shop.
Reality and a Continental flight were waiting beyond the same glass doors that’d welcomed me just two hours before. With the Pretty Woman high almost worn off, my mind drifted back to the smoky topaz star ring. I smiled. I knew I’d come back to Rio and H. Stern. But the next time, I’d leave with my right ring finger adorned with stars.
Who is Leah?
The fab Leah
With a severe case of wanderlust, Leah Walker lives by the motto, “Life is too short to live with a someday attitude.” When she’s not in Houston, Texas dreaming about travel, she’s being groped by airport security, getting her passport stamped, seeking out street food that won’t make her sick, and writing all about it on LeahTravels.com. Leah can also be found on Facebook and Twitter.
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- How I fell in love with Rio de Janeiro, Brazil (mrsoaroundtheworld.com)
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- It’s Friday Photos – Fit for a queen « Mrs. O Around the World_____ not just another travel blog - [...] on Twitter. If you are considering visiting this amazing place, you may want to read my post and Leah’s. ...
- Rio’s Hippie Fair | Leah Travels - [...] Semi-precious gem stones can also be found at the Hippie Fair. You’ll find loose stones of medium quality. Common ...
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I’ll admit I have no idea who H Stern is but I loved visiting Rio during my work trips to Brazil in the late 1990s and I am glad Leah discovered Rio and some of its fun things to do. Next time head south to Tia Palmira near the cost 45 mins south of Rio or so.
Raul (@ilivetotravel) recently posted..Getting into the White House – A Tour Story
I need to head back to Brazil and explore – we could be gone for months!
Love the title, love Leah, love Jewels. Sign me up for a tour. It’s a good thing I’m broke or else I’d surely become so after visiting!
Tawny- Captain and Clark recently posted..We are headed to India as CheapOair’s Travelers of the Year!
The tour is worth it in itself
amazing things!!
OK I am supposed to know what H. Stern stands for, but for a bit there I was wondering why the two of you bonded over the same radio show…
Leah, I hope next time you buy a ring or two! Still, what a great experience watching those artists at work.
Pola (@jettingaround) recently posted..Photo of the Week: John Hancock Center in Chicago
LOL, that was so funny!!
It was over jewellery 
much more up our street!!
well ok, we were a LITTLE disappointed this wasn’t actually about leah getting high in rio.
the lazy travelers recently posted..no travel required
Got ya!
You always come up with the best titles
I’m not really a girly-girl so I don’t know much about jewelry and designers, but I do know the objects in those photos are pretty darn beautiful.
Francesca recently posted..St. Francis, Assisi, and me
She is good with her titles and writing! We had no idea that HStern was Brazilian
All I know is, that first picture……WOWWW. Oh and the gems are pretty too:)
D.J. – The World of Deej recently posted..Epcot Food & Wine Festival Survival Guide
Not too shabby for Mrs O or Leah, all I can say!
You had me going with the title.. but I should have known. Lol. That was some kind of stone. I’d love to walk away with that on my finger too!
Kieu ~ GQ trippin recently posted..We Crashed a Wedding in India!
I would have love to tooo.. didn’t get that exact same one, but love the little one I got!
I had no idea that Howard Stern had a jewelry store in Rio, but I confess not to be an expert on jewelry and shopping. The things you learn when you read travel blogs.
Traveling Ted recently posted..Traveling Ted volunteers for the Hike and Seek with the National Wildlife Federation
Ted, what I didn’t know was that they were Brazilian
always thought they were American
Knowing Rio and knowing Pretty Women… all I can say is interesting selection.
as for the stone, and the coveted ring, how many commas on the calculator?
stay adventurous, Craig
Craig Zabransky recently posted..Sunset Sunday – A Tour Bus Stop in Santiago Tuxtla, Veracruz
A few
but totally worth it!
This place sounds like paradise! I will definitely have to make the trip when I make it to Rio.
The World Wanderer recently posted..African Overland Trucks: A Survival Guide.
You should, Erin! I loved it too
Some really really nice jewelery!
This title was thoroughly misleading haha! Also, I thought H. Stern referred to Howard Stern at first…ooops. Anyways, interesting article and a good read – surprised you didn’t pull a heist while you were there!
Indeed
interesting, Howard Stern never came into the picture 
the stones were beautiful indeed! Leah wrote this blog post for me, but I had been there in January, hence why it made total sense! I could have spent my life savings here… seriously!
Made you look, Tom.
That was the whole idea! I thought folks might think the shock-jock made jewelry, too. I like to keep readers on their toes. Thanks for reading and tweeting!
So beautiful! I love the aquamarine stones. I imagine it’s hard not to leave with a purchase!
Oh Suzy, it was so difficult. Had my husband been with me I just might have left with something, starting with that star ring! I’m obsessed in an unhealthy sort of way. Thanks for the stumble.
Such a fabulous post! I LOVE HS pieces, such a shame that it’s sooo out of price range haha.
Thank you, Andi. Maybe H. Stern will want to change their image. Drop Katie Holmes as their spokesperson and use a trio of Brazil-loving travel writers. Ahem…YOU…cough…ME…ahem…MRS O…cough. Just a suggestion.
I would consider payment in kind
They look very tempting. I can imagine you felt like a queen in there.
I did, Arjan. It’s pretty easy to feel like a queen in H. Stern. There were so many beautiful things to try on. Thanks for reading.
I think you’re right, Ana. Sign me up!
Pretty gorgeous & Leah too but would have liked more photos
You’re sweet, Liz. Thank you. I wished I’d been able to take more photos too! In fact, I tried to take a picture of the aquamarine ring, but was told that I couldn’t due to the original design. I suppose H. Stern doesn’t want people to take photos of the jewelry and then buy the stone and have it made elsewhere. I can appreciate that.
I think it means we need to go back to Rio
I think Liz wouldnt mind that!!
Great H. Stern tour by Leah. I was raised in Rio and remember when H. Stern was just becoming big. My mother and I spent many hours there and am the proud owner of vintage Stern bought for me as starter pieces by my mother.
That is such a deceptive title! Haha
But it got me reading the article.
For someone who doesn’t care much for jewellery, I found it exciting!
And I am most likely to take a visit here if I shall ever go to Rio, that’s for sure.
Thanks for sharing such an exciting time with us!
Our pleasure
hahaha got you, didnt we?